A Complete Explanation Of Everything

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Ok.

Because most of the queries in relation to Dublin seem to come under this heading and at best, you could describe what has been written to date as tidbits and rubbish, here goes.

I'm going to give you, I suppose the rough guide / lonely planet review of Dublin from a local's perspective, never having picked up the Dublin variant of either book, I can't promise I'll be in complete agreement but I'm sure it'll be there or thereabouts.

Also, a health warning to begin, I am but one person therefore what I find fun and interesting may not agree with you. Teetotallers be warned, Dublin is not very accommodative to you, there is a serious dearth of locations at night where one might have a non-alcoholic beverage and not be first, puzzled at, secondly, mocked and then perhaps ignored. But that's not to your disadvantage, come drink an expensive softdrink but never tell of your burden to anyone and at that point, you'll be gladly welcomed. You could get a coffee but the barstaff on any reasonably busy night in Dublin (that's everyday barring Monday, although there are certain places!), will certainly roll the eyes and what you receive might not be deserving of the title, coffee.

Furthermore, this is not intended as a guide for either stag or hen parties, we're trying to stay away from them remember!

Anyway, onwards and upwards folks.

There's the old Joyce saying, to cross Dublin without passing a pub is a riddle in itself and this is quite correct, spending a lazy day nipping in out of hostelries at chance is quite a good way to see and experience Dublin. Most have some form of charm about them and certainly in the city centre, the majority are worth a visit. Ireland's gift to the world was real pub culture and Dublin delivers this in spades, however, in recent years there has been the phenomenon of the super pub and the uber trendy metropolitan bar, money changes a person and Dublin has seen some money over the past 15 years. So, here's a guide of where to go and what to expect when you get there...

Temple Bar:

Just south of the Ha'Penny Bridge (you'll see it, it's the only pretty thing crossing the River Liffey, especially at night), you step through a dark archway, Merchant's Arch and you find yourself in Temple Bar Square. Quite why you insisted on coming here is beyond me and most Dublin locals, Temple Bar was initially supposed to be a tax assisted haven for artists and an attempt at inner city rejuvenation. What occurred was the creation of a major hub for stag and hen parties, a few dubious theme Irish pubs, with a bit of dancing, etc. Towards the end of the night, the pretty cobbled streets become awash with a mixture of vomit and beer and the punters are not a pretty sight either. I'd say avoid entirely but if you're that determined, take a quick run upstairs into Oliver St. John Gogarty's to catch some faux traditional music, it's right on the corner of the square. Next take a wander down past the square, taking in the sights and sounds here early in the evening might be a good way to build up an idea of why you don't want to be here later. Take care in passing and you'll spy a brass stratocaster adorning a wall on the way to your next stop, that is a copy of Rory Gallagher's guitar, Ireland's most famous electric guitarist, you didn't know him? You uncultured person, you! Moving on, you are headed for the Porter House, you'll find it at the very edge of Temple Bar and it's a specialist brew pub, does all it's own beers and quite a selection of foreign bottles from all over the world. It's popular with tourists and alot of foreign students, the atmosphere is generally pretty lively and there is some decentish music to be had in here from a central stage that actually plays to three levels. That's enough for Temple Bar, I wouldn't recommend anywhere else unless you're a stalwart rocker, you might want to check out the Fun Loving Criminals owned, dingy, Eamonn Dorans. You can catch some local acts belting it out with the best of them here, the beer is unspeakable however. Turns into a club later on in the evening but there are other places that are far better.

Oh, there is one little gem, that you may want to check out, The Palace Bar, complete opposite end of Temple Bar branching out towards Westmoreland St, is worth a look, especially if you are in early and can make your way upstairs. The odd traditional session in here but also a very traditional pub.

College Green / Dame Street:

All this occurs beside Trinity College, you'll have probably spotted it during the day and may have wandered in for the Book of Kells and a look around. Doyle's can be found at the very side of Trinity when you're heading towards College Green, it's a studenty crowd and is generally a good laugh. Two levels, with a heaving dancefloor upstairs where people dance badly to indie music. During the day, downstairs is pleasant enough, if you want to meet Irish boys and girls however, upstairs later on might not be a bad bet. Moving onwards, Dame Street issues perpendicular from the entrance of Trinity and there are a number of pubs / bars heading towards the junction with Georges Street and upwards to Christchurch. Basically, if you like your clothes, your hair is important and you want to go somewhere "nice", perhaps The Bank or even The Mercantile might be your speed, don't worry, if these places aren't trendy enough for you, we'll be moving onto Grafton St later. O'Briens and Brogans can be found either side of the street here, both are ok in the classical sense of the Dublin Pub but both are equally not great either. A quick pint and go!

Grafton St:

There are no pubs on Grafton St. But you'll find yourself wending your way in this direction up the pedestrian street without doubt anyway, sampling the best and worst of Dublin's busking talent. There are however many pubs in the adjoining streets as you ascend towards St. Stephen's Green, Kehoe's on the left hand side towards the top is a traditional spot for locals, if you take the right and go towards the other side you'll find yourself in the vicinity of Powerscourt House, there are a great many trendy and traditional bars around here. A good place to take a rich sample, my personal highlights round here are Grogans also known as The Castle Lounge, worth just checking out the decor inside and the pint of guinness is to die for. The International Bar back on the junction with Exchequer Street is also worth checking out but not if you're a fan of "nice" places, lively conversation, a good rock'n'roll jukebox downstairs, the only drawback is the toilet arrangements merit qualification for the Trainspotting category. Worst toilet in Ireland, etc. The bigger the doormen, the classier the place round here, if you're that way inclined just follow the attractive people and you'll find yourself paying high prices for drinks with the cubs of the Celtic Tiger.

For the real rocker out there no visit to Dublin would be complete without stepping into Bruxelles, it's a right just before the top of Grafton Street and you'll spy the statue of Phil Lynott with bass guitar at the entrance. There are two clubs downstairs, the heavy metal end and the indie end. Ear protection required for the heavy metal end.

Georges Street:

It would be remiss not to mention, Dublin and perhaps Ireland's most famous gay bar at this point, The George situated on George's Street funnily enough is big loud and brash and exclusively gay most nights, there are a couple of other places around Dublin that swing both ways but The George is pretty much one direction only. Moving on up the Street, you'll find The Globe, decent trendy little bar, good if you can get a seat, later on the downstairs club opens and that gets very busy very quickly, not for the claustrophobic. Moving on further again, we come to Hogan's, Dublin's answer to New York. Again, this is a place where world music and rap belt out and lots of locals come out to play, a good place to meet and mix, downstairs opens and there's room to breathe after 9pm.

Dawson St:

Dawson St is in the opposite direction and also parallel to Grafton Street but it's of a similarly salubrious ilk generally. Cafe En Seine serves some of the most expensive pints in Dublin but is again popular with people who like to jangle car keys and know how much you earn, affectionately known as Cafe Insane by locals, the decor is quite pleasing on the eye if the prices aren't. That's a good general flavour of Dawson St, Ron Black's further up towards St Stephens Green is similar.

Wexford St:

Get your rocks off and welcome to clubland for the Indie music fan. A couple of decent bars around here Solas, Carnival, will keep you ticking over until midnight. Head to The Village and Whelans for heaving sweaty masses dancing to the tunes of today and the nineties, all in good fun. Whelans is a good music venue, playing to established acts and locals alike.

Harcourt St / Leeson St:

For a more traditional nightclub experience, take your chances up here, they're all pretty similar. They're both just off Stephen's Green. My personal recommendation, if you are indeed desperate to shake a tailfeather is The Sugar Club on the bottom of Leeson St. You'll pay in but there's a live band that generally specialises in some variant of retro and it's all good fun. Nice booze if expensive, nice looking people, good music to boot, what more could you ask for?

Well, that's about it I guess, Dublin is a city swimming in booze but the people are generally quite pleasant. Here's a little tip, when the night's revelry is at an end try and avoid going for fast food, that's where most of your standard trouble erupts. Try and stay in city centre Dublin if you intend on sampling the bars, public transport is generally not great and though there are more taxis than ever before, kicking out time on Saturday morning is still busy.

Dublin is also the city of a thousand rock bands, throw a stone down Grafton St (don't!) and you'll hit a guitar player, throw the guys a bone and check out some local acts. Hit Whelans or The Sugar Club for this...

Here's a couple of websites to tide you over...

- www.dublinpubscene.com - All of the pubs / bars can be found in here, along with detailed directions...

Top recommendations: Grogans; The Cobblestone (for real traditional music); Bruxelles; Whelans; Hogans; Anseo; Sin E

- www.entertainment.ie - Gig listings, cinema, all that good stuff for Dublin in one convenient place...

Have fun and cead mile failte to Dublin!